Tailor s measure



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HpA. JACKSON. TAI-LORS MEASURE.

No. 361,292. Patented Apr. 19, 1887.

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TAILOR S MEASURE No. 361,292. PatentedApr. 19, 1887.V

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UNITED STATES PATENTY OFFICE.

H. Avans JACKSON, on CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

n TAILORS MEASURE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 361,292, dated April 19, 1887.

Application filed September 15, 1885. Serial No. 177,220. (Nomodel.)

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, H. Avans-Jackson, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the'county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Means forMeasuring, Drafting, and Cutting Clothing, of which ythe following is a specification, to wit:

This invention relates to an improved means for measuring, drafting, and cutting clothing, whereby a more perfect t is obtained and a great saving made in the quantity of goods used and to this end it consists in a harness adapted, when properly adj usted, to determine in all cases a positive point from which the majority of the most important measurements are taken in a series of scales, each of which is exactly one-fourth the length of a particular bust-measure, and each of said scales being divided into twenty-four equal parts or divisions, with the addition of about one inch for the allowance for seams, and also in a series of sliding irregular curves so arranged with reference to each other that each shall be distinguished from the other at a glance and adapted to give the required curve to fit any ordinarily-shaped person, of whatever style or size desired, as will be hereinafter more fully set forth.

In order to enable others skilled in the art to which my invention appertains to make and use the same, I will now proceed to ldescribe its construction and operation, referring to the annexed drawings, in which- Figure l is aview of one set of my scales suitable for bust-measures from twenty-eight to fifty inches. Fig. 2 is the sleeve-scales. Figs. 3 and 4 are the irregular-curve patterns. Fig. 5 is the form for drafting the center line of the back of the garment; Fig. (i, a hip-rule for ladies use. Fig. 7 is the harness for measuring. Fig. 8 is a view of one of my scalesin which the divisions have been carried to twenty-four and about one inch added from point B.

In the taking of measurements for cutting garments-such as coats, vests, ladies dresses, cloaks, &c.-it is essential that a particular point should be established in each case from which all the measures in the upper part of the pattern Should be taken, and this point, for the perfect drafting of the' pattern, should be always in the same relative position in every case, no matter how much the sizes may vary; and in order to do this I provide a harness consisting of the belt A, provided with a buckle, a, by which it may be adjusted as desired. To this belt, by a loop upon the rear side, are secured two shoulder-straps, A', which slide upon the belt, and at their forward ends are buckled to a similar loop, a', sliding upon the front of the belt. These loops a are each provided with a button or stud, a2, to which the measure and tape are attached, as seen. This belt is secured around the person to be fitted, j ust under the arms, with the straps A passing over the shoulders. These straps are then adalong the belt until the latter is drawn up close beneath the armpits and is perfectly level around the body, and its upper edge forms a line upon which many of the measurements are taken.

The scale patented to me June 6, 1882, was based upon the bust or breast measure, each scale being just one-fourth of the bust-measure in length, said scales being graduated from a tWenty-three-inch to a forty-eight-inch bust. Each of these scales was divided into twentyfour equal spaces, only ten of which were laid offl on one end of the scale. The` forty-eightinch bust-measure, therefore, was just twelve inches in length and subdivided into twentyfour equal spaces of one-half inch each, and the twenty-four-inch scale was six inches long, thev twenty-four subdivisions being one-fourth inch long. The common difference between each scale being just one-fourth of aninch, the com- Inon difference between each subdivision was therefore one ninety-sixth part of an in ch, as will be readily seen.

In the present scale the entire twenty-four divisions are marked upon the scale, as shown in Figs. l and 8, and each of these is again subdivided into four equal spaces, making ninetysix equal subdivisions in each scale, each of which is just one three-hundred-and-eightyfourth part of the bust-measure, and the common difference between divisions in eachscale is therefore j ust one three-hundred-and-eightyv justed by their buckle or by slipping them` ICO shown by V in Figs. l and 8, the former of which shows the manner of printing or for1ning a complete set in one piece, and the latter shows one after being divided from the others 5 and having all its divisions and subdivisions marked upon it.

U is an instrument of irregular curves for fitting and drawing the back form, side-back form, and darts to fit any measurements. It is formed as shown in Fig. 3, one edge commencing at the apex or point X and curving outward to a point, Y, thence inward to the bottom point, j. The other edge curves from the apex X abruptly outward to a point, X2, thence inward to a point, X, thence inward and downward to the point X. On one edge the instrument is provided with a scale, and it has a slot or curve shaped for the dart form and .side-back form, as clearly seen in Fig. 3.

U is an instrument for drafting the bust form, neck curve, front, back, and bottom arm-scye form,back-neck curve, and vest-front curve. It is made of card-board or any other suitable material. It is shaped as shown in Fig. 4, one edge commencing at the apex X5 of the base and curving abruptly outward and upwardly to a point, X, then curving inward and. upward to the end point, X", the other edge being a compound curve or aseries of irregular curves commencing at the apex X5 of the base and curving abruptly outward and upward to a point, Xs, then curving inward and upward to a point, X, then outward and upward to a point, X1", thence inward and upward to end point, X7, forming an acute or wedge-shape point, as clearly shown in Fig. 4.

U2, Fig. 5, shows the form or instrument for drawing the back center line. It has one edge straight and the other edge formed with a curve inward at the upper end and a compound or irregular curve at or near its lower end, which curves and edges are clearly shown in Fig. 5, to which reference is here made.

U3, Fig. 6, is a form or instrument used in drafting patterns for ladies7 garments and is made in shape and form as shown in Fig. G. One edge is straight and marked with a suitable scale or series of divisions and fractions thereof. The other edge is curved from one end downward for three inches and inward onehalf inch, and from this point curved downward and outward again to a point about seven inches from the end, as shown in Fig. G.

These formsand curves are each marked, as shown, to indicate the particular position to which they are applicable, and when laid upon the pattern may be slid along until their edges pass through the points laid out,and the curve thus found will be the one required to properly fit the person measured. This also al lows for getting any length of curve that may be desired by simply slipping the forms one way or the other until the desired length of curve is had.

In drafting a sleeve-pattern, I use the scale V', (shown in Fig. 2,) in which inches and fractions of inches are so grouped that any desired size of arnrscye, elbow, or cuff can be placed accurately in accordance with the measures taken, and a perfect pattern drafted for any desired style of sleeve, whether to full7 or not to full7 at the elbow. By reference to this scale it will be readily seen that it is composed of a number of graduated scales suitable for marking the points of Various portions of the pattern as per measurements taken. For instance, the scale marked C shows the measurements at elbow, and if a measure of thirteen inches has been taken at this point the end of scale at 3 is placed at the base-line (as on the diagram shown on the scale) and the point L marked for the inside edge of the pattern. From this point the two sides of the sleeve are to be measured, so that one will be larger than the other, but both together will give thirteen inches. By reference to the scale it will be seen to provide two sets of divisions, one for a gathered elbow and the other without gathers. isso arranged that the smaller and greater side ofthe scale taken together will just give these dimensions. This refers to scale C in Fig. 2. The distance 3 to L is cut off, the measurement of the pattern commencing at L referring to the divisions marked elbow-gathers.7 For the outside pattern the distance L to 13 measures seven and one-halfinches, forthe inside pattern five and one-half inches, both together making thirteen inches, the meas ure required. The scale A, which locates the arm-scye curves, scale B, which locates the upper end of the side seams, and scale D, which gives the size of cuffs are all arranged upon the same principle.

It will be observed that in the scales, Figs. 1 and 8, the addition from point B forms no part of the scale, but is simply for the purpose of showing an allowance for seams. This may or may not be used, as desired.

The various scales are all on the same base, no calculation being necessary except to mark the required measure-figure in the proper position, whether for the size of arm-seye,elbow, or cuff. The result will be the production of the sized pattern required by the measures taken.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. An instrument for drafting patterns for clothing, formed exactly one quarter the length of a given bust or breast measure,with the addition of an allowance for seams, Ste., said instrument having graduations dividing that portion, exclusive of the said allowance, into twenty-four equal parts, and each of these divisions subdivided into four equal parts,the whole forming a scale, substantially as shown and described,and for the purpose set forth.

2. An instrument, U, for drafting patterns for clothing, of pasteboard or other suitable material, having one edge of irregular curves combined,commencing at the apex or pointX and curving outward to a point, Y, thence in- In each of these divisions 13v ICO ward to the bottom point, X, and the other edge curves from the apex X abruptly outward to a point, X2, thenceA inward to a point, XS,

thence .inward to the bottom point,X, and provided with a slot-curve, as described, and a scale marked on one of the edges,substantially as shown and described, and for the purpose set forth.

3. An instrument, U', for drafting clothing, made of card-board or other suitable material, having an irregular curved end, one edge commencing at the apex X5 of the base and curving abruptly outward and upwardly to a point, X6, then curving inward and upward to the end point, X7, the other edge being a compound curvc or a series of continuous curves, commencing at the 'apex X5 of the base and curving abruptly outward and upward to a point, X8, then curving inward and upward to a point, X9, then outward and upward toa point, X1", and thence inward and upward to end point, Xl, forming an acute or wedge-shaped point, substantially as described and shown,

. and for the purpose set forth.

4. The back-rule U2, having one edge straight and the other formed with a'curve inward at the` upper end and a compound curve inward at or near its lower end, substantially as herein shown, and the whole marked with inches, feet, yards, andfractions thereof.

5. The hip-rule U3, for use in drafting patterns for ladies garments, marked with asuitable scale or series of divisions and fractions thereof, having one edge curved from one end downward for three inches and inward onehalf inch, and from this point curved downward and outward again to a point about seven inches from the end, as shown and described.

6. A pattern, chart, or diagram for cutting patterns for sleeves, having for its base a rectangle, one side of which is about one-half the arm seye measure, the other the length or more of the arm-measure, and provided with scales, measure marks,- and variations, whereby sleeves of different styles may be cut,substan tially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I affix my si gnature in presence of two witnesses.

H. AYERS JACKSON.

Witnesses:

W. C. MGARTHUR, W. S. MCARTHUR. 

